BEADAZZLED

This spectacular embroidery was designed and stitched
by Irene Junkuhn with an abundance of richly coloured shiny threads and luxurious beads. It would add an opulent effect to any room.

MATERIALS
• 36cm (14 1/4in) square of cream satin-backed shantung or pre-printed fabric
• 36cm (14 1/4in) square of cream homespun for the backing
• Rajmahal Art Silk: 1 skein each of bluebell (121), Cossack blue (122), hot plum (256), bordeaux (745), sassafras (805)
• Rajmahal Pearl Sadi: 80cm (7/8 yd) silver
• Rajmahal Smooth Sadi: 50cm (5/8 yd) silver
• Rajcord: 1m (1 1/8yd) silver
• Handsew: 15m (16 1/2yd) silver
• Maria George Square Delica Beads: 6 pink (SB4-2601)
• Maria George Delica Beads: 1 packet of D-027
• Judith & Kathryn Flower Beads: 2 silver 1cm (3/8in), 1 small mauve
• 3mm (1/16 in) pearls: 22 cream
• Seed beads: 1 packet each of grape, red, blue, silver
• Half bugle beads: 1 packet of silver
• Flower sequins: 5 blue
• Sequins: 30 pink, 20 silver
• Tiny sequins: 1 packet of pink
• No 9 crewel needle
• No 20 chenille needle
• No 10 beading needle
• Beading thread
• Machine-sewing cotton: 1 reel in a light colour for tacking
• 25cm (10in) embroidery hoop

DESIGN SIZE
17cm x 22cm (6 3/4in x 8 1/2in)

STITCHES USED 

Backstitch, chain stitch, colonial knot, couching, fly stitch, lazy daisy stitch, long and short stitch, satin stitch, straight stitch, trellis stitch, wheat ear stitch, whipstitch, whipped backstitch, whipped chain stitch

PREPARATION 
If you are using shantung fabric, transfer the design outline from the  pattern  sheet  using  your preferred method.

Tack the homespun to the back of the shantung or pre-printed fabric, then tension them in the hoop until they are drum tight.

EMBROIDERY
Note: It is best to do all the Art Silk embroidery first, then the Sadi metal threads and finally the beads and sequins. Two strands of Art Silk and one of Handsew are used unless stated otherwise. Stretch the Pearl Sadi until it is two-thirds longer to allow the couching stitches to slip between the coils.
The No 9 crewel needle is used with the embroidery threads, the No 10 beading needle with the beading thread unless stated otherwise and the No 20 chenille needle with the Rajcord.

Pomegranate: Outline the fruit with two rows of chain stitch and fill the centre bell shape in chain stitch with hot plum (256).
Leaves: Referring to diagram 1, satin-stitch these with sassafras (805) and fly-stitch the veins with Handsew, then backstitch the green tendril with sassafras (805). Large blue flower: Work the petals in long and short stitch with bluebell (121), shading to Cossack blue (122). Satin-stitch the centre of the flower with Cossack blue (122), then outline it with colonial knots and work trellis stitch across
it with bordeaux (745). Stitch smaller trellis stitch in the petals on either side of the centre with Cossack blue (122). Grape bud: Fill the three petals in colonial knots with bordeaux (745), then satin-stitch the leaves with sassafras (805) and backstitch the tendrils with Handsew. Carnation: Outline the petals in backstitch and fill in the tops with two rows of colonial knots in hot plum (256). Still using the same thread, work trellis stitch in the cup of the flower the same width as the red seed beads. Form the tiny tendrils in backstitch with Handsew. Refer to the photograph for placement. Large green leaf: Chain-stitch the outline with sassafras (805), then whip over it in Handsew. Silver leaf: Outline this in chain stitch with Handsew. Large flower on the right: Satin-stitch the tip with one strand of bordeaux (745), then backstitch the outline of the petals on either side of
this with Handsew. Backstitch the outline of the curved petals below these with hot plum (256), then whip them with Handsew. Satin-stitch the teardrop shape below with bordeaux (745).
Blue daisy flower: Form the petals in satin-stitch with bluebell (121) and stitch the tiny leaves in lazy daisy stitch with sassafras (805).

SADI METAL THREAD AND RAJCORD EMBROIDERY 
Couching Sadi: Gently stretch the pearl Sadi to remove the kinks and to enable the stitches to slip between the coils so they are invisible. Begin couching 5mm (1/4in) from the edge so the stitches don't slip off the end - once started the end can be secured. Take small stitches at right angles with Handsew over the Sadi. Couching Rajcord: Thread the cord in the chenille needle and bring it to the front of the design. Work small couching stitches in Handsew at right angles to the cord, then once completed take the cord to the back with the chenille needle and secure it. Pomegranate: Outline the fruit and centre bell shape and form the stem with silver pearl Sadi. Large blue flower: Lay two rows of silver pearl Sadi around the outlines of the petals on either side of the centre and couch over both rows so they lock together. Carnation: Outline the centre zigzag shape, the cup of the flower and the tendrils below it with silver Rajcord. Scatter smooth Sadi spangles in the centre of the zigzag shape, then sew a colonial knot in the centre of each one with hot plum (256). Sadi spangles: With diagram 2 as a reference, cut tiny 3mm (1/16in) pieces of Smooth Sadi to form rings and secure them with at least three couching stitches.
Large green leaf: Stitch woven S-ing stitch with silver sequins and 5mm (1/4in) pieces of Smooth Sadi.

Thread the No 9 crewel needle with Handsew. Referring to diagram 3, come up at A, thread on a piece of Smooth Sadi and take the needle down at B. The stitch length must be shorter than the length of Sadi. Bring the needle up at C, thread on a piece of Sadi and go down at D - this is pulled to the side with a spare needle to form the 'S' shape.  Continue stitching the Sadi this way for about 10 stitches, then with a spare needle, move the Sadi gently to the left and bring the needle through in the middle of the stitch. Thread on a piece of Sadi and pick up a silver sequin through the front, take the needle to the back of the work and come up again through the top of the sequin underneath the Sadi stitch above, using the spare needle to move the Sadi to the left. Repeat this until the area is too narrow for a sequin and continue stitching woven S-ing stitch with Sadi to the end. Large flower on the right: Outline the petals with Pearl Sadi, the larger centre heart with two rows and the smaller shape below it with one row. Couch Rajcord between the two rows of Sadi, then form the stems and trailing vine with the same thread.

BEADS AND BEAD EMBROIDERY
Stitch through the single beads twice so they sit correctly and are secure. Pomegranate: Stitch pink sequins in the centre bell shape with beaded fan stitch. Bring the needle to the front and starting and ending with a seed bead, thread on six pink sequins with a grape seed bead between each one, then take the needle down at the starting point to form a loop. Secure the thread at the back, then come back up and couch between the beads to form the fan. Refer to diagram 4.

Stitch three SB4-2601 square beads on either side of the bell shape, then work woven cord stitch along the lines on either side of the fruit. Refer to diagram 5.
Woven cord stitch: Bring the needle up on the left of the beads for the left-hand side petal and on the right of the beads for the right-hand side petal.
1. Thread the needle with Handsew, then starting at the top, thread on six grape seed beads, one red seed bead and one pink sequin through the back, make a stitch half the length of the sequin, then take the needle to the back.
2. Move the beads to the left of the line and bring the needle through to the right side of the line above the sequin.
3. Thread on six grape seed beads, one red seed bead and one pink sequin, then take the needle into the fabric on the line on the right just below the first row of beads. Keep the needle on the right of the row of beads and make sure the sequins lie flat next to each other.
Repeat steps 2 and 3 to the end of the line. Work the line on the other side in mirror image.
Work wheat ear stitch below the bell shape using silver half bugle beads and Handsew. Bring the needle up half the length of the bead, from the right-hand side of the line, thread on two half-bugle beads and then take the needle down on the left of the line. Couch the beads down in the centre so they form a 'V'. Repeat this to the end of the line. Refer to diagram 6.
Add a colonial knot between each wheat ear stitch with hot plum (256). Large blue flower: Work pairs of tiny straight stitches above the outer petals with Handsew, then with the same thread, add a blue seed bead to the tip of each one. Scatter blue seed beads in the lattice couching on either side of the centre flower.
Add a silver flower bead at the base of the flower using bordeaux (745) and stitch between the petals on the bead to define them.
Sew five blue flower sequins along  the outer petals, securing each one with a tiny loop of Smooth Sadi.
Cut short pieces of Smooth Sadi, then thread the crewel needle with Handsew. Bring the needle up, thread on a piece of Sadi, then go down to the back close to the starting point and gently pull the thread until the Sadi curves into a loop. Secure each one firmly on the back before stitching the next one. Refer to diagram 7. Grape bud: Bring the needle up at the base of a petal, thread on seven silver seed beads, go down at the tip, then come up again and couch between the beads so they lie flat, but don't pull them too tight. Stitch D027 beads at the base of the flower. Carnation: Sew a pearl bead on the marked dots in each petal. Thread nine silver seed beads on the needle, loop them around the pearl and then work a couching stitch between each bead. Stitch three tiny pink sequins under the three middle pearls with hot plum (256).

Sew a red seed bead in the middle of each square formed by the trellis stitch in the cup of the flower.
Scatter silver half bugles among the spangles in the zigzag shape and on the outside edge of it with Handsew. Refer to the photograph for placement.
Large green leaf: Scatter D027 beads on the left side of the leaves next to the silver sequins and towards the tips.
Large silver leaf: Work wheat ear stitch with silver half bugle beads along the centre vein, then add a D027 bead between them. Refer to diagram 6.
Large flower on the right: Fill the squares formed by the lower trellis stitch with red seed beads. Add a tiny pink sequin in every second square formed by the upper trellis stitch in the heart shape, using hot plum (256) radiating out from the centre and over the edge of the sequins. Sew a small mauve flower bead in the centre of the teardrop shape at the base of the flower.
Stitch a pearl bead in the centre of the satin-stitch tip and form a fly stitch under it with silver half bugle beads. Add a pearl bead on either side of the petals near the teardrop and a row of half bugle beads. Refer to the photograph for placement.
Stitch woven cord stitch with beads in the centre of the top silver petals with five each of red and grape seed beads. Refer to diagram 8.
1. Alternating five red seed beads with five grape ones and starting at the top, thread on five beads, make a stitch half the length of the beads and take the needle to the back.
2. Move the beads to the left of the line and bring the needle up on the right-hand side of the beads on the line next to the centre bead.
3. Thread on five beads and take the needle into the fabric on the line just below the first row of beads. Bring it up again on the line just below the beaded stitch above and next to the bead of the second row, keeping the needle on the right of the row of beads.
Repeat steps two and three to the end of the line.
Work woven cord stitch in the four petals on either side of the heart shape with seven grape seed beads and a centre pearl.
Form this stitch on the right of the line of beads for the right-hand side petals and on the left for the left-hand side petals.
Refer to diagram 9.

1. Bring the needle and Handsew thread up at the top and thread on seven beads, make a stitch the full length of the beads and take the needle to the back.
2. Move the beads to the left of the line and bring the needle back up on the right side of the beads next to the centre bead, keeping on the line.
3. Thread on seven beads, move them to the left of the line and take the needle into the fabric on the line for the full length of the beads.
4. Repeat steps two and three to the end of the line.
5. Once the row of woven cord stitch is complete, pull the threaded beads apart and stitch a pearl bead in the centre of each pair.
Blue daisy flowers: Sew a row of three blue seed beads in the centre at the base of the flower and a row of four either side of this to form a rectangle.

FINISHING
Your dazzling masterpiece is ready to be framed.

Daisy a Day

MATERIALS
• 40cm (16in) square of white cotton fabric
• No 7 crewel needle
• DMC Stranded Embroidery Cotton: one skein each of topaz (725), light topaz (726), very light topaz (727), very light golden olive (834), dark forest green (987), medium forest green (988), light khaki green (3013), very light golden yellow (3078), light yellow green (3348), pine green (3364), bridal white (3865), blanc (white)
• 15cm (6in) embroidery hoop
• Water-erasable marking pen

DESIGN SIZE
20cm (8in) square

STITCHES USED
French knot, stem stitch

PREPARATION
Transfer the design from the pattern sheet onto the fabric with the water-erasable marking pen, using your favourite light source. This could be done by taping the design to a sunlit window, then taping the fabric over the top of the design, making sure that it is centred.
Outside the area of the design square, pick one side of the fabric and draw arrows towards the embroidery, all in the same direction. This will help with your shading when embroidering the design.

EMBROIDERY
All the embroidery is worked using two strands of embroidery cotton threaded in the No 7 crewel needle. Refer to the pattern sheet to establish the colour combination for the daisies. Using dark forest green (987), stem-stitch the vein in the centre of the leaves. The remaining embroidery is stitched in closely-placed French knots. Place your work in the embroidery hoop pulling it taut. Fill the centre of the leaves in dark forest green (987) and then finish stitching the outer edges of the leaves in medium forest green (988) using the pattern as a placement guide.
The yellow daisies are stitched next. Begin a petal on the same side as the arrows that you placed on the fabric.
With two strands of topaz (725) work one row of French knots. The second row of French knots is embroidered using one strand of topaz (725) and one strand of light topaz (726) threaded together in the needle. For the third row use two strands of light topaz (726). Then the next row is stitched with one strand of light topaz (726) and one strand of very light topaz (727), also threaded in the needle together. Finish the petal with two strands of very light topaz (727). Work the remaining leaves in the same manner, starting the darkest shading on the same side as the previous petal. If you find that you cannot fit all the colours into the petal, omit the mixed threads, remembering to have at least three different colours at the base of each petal to define them.

The white flowers are embroidered a little differently. Using the arrows as a guide again, start on one side of the petal using two strands of very light golden yellow (3078), stitching one row of French knots. Work the second row using two strands of bridal white (3865). Embroider the remainder of the petal in blanc (white). Finish each petal in the same manner. Using the pattern sheet as a guide, fill in the centre of the daisies beginning with very light golden olive (834) as the deepest shade, working the next section in pine green (3364) and then finishing off with light yellow green (3348). Fill in the background area with light khaki green (3013), still using French knots.

FINISHING
Your embroidered piece is now ready to be framed or it can also be made into a cushion.

Heart of Blossoms Blanket

Blossoms and forget-me-nots entwined on a heart full of love - this beautiful, soft wool blanket, would make a lovely gift to be treasured.

MATERIALS
• 80cm x 100cm (3l 1/2in x 39in) cream wool blanketing
• 105cm x 125cm (41in x 49in) warm white fabric for lining
• Watercolours by Caron: one skein of rose quartz (031)
• Appletons 2 ply crewel wool: One skein each of very light cornflower (461), very light autumn yellow (471), very light heraldic gold (841)
• Gumnut Blossoms Wool Yarn: very very light raspberry (050), light raspberry (052), medium sage green (625)
• Gumnut 'Jewels' Silk Thread: one skein of amethyst light
• Gumnut 'Buds" Silk Thread: one skein of light sage green (543) one skein of 564
• Madeira Silk Thread: one packet each of sage green (1510), golden brown (2210)
• YLI Silk Floss: one packet of rose pink (190)
• 3m (3 1/4yd) No 000 piping cord
• 3m x 15mm (3 1/4yd x 1/2in) pink satin bias binding
• No 24 and No 22 chenille needle
• No 7 crewel needle
• No 1 milliner's (straw) needle
• Tracing paper
• Blue water-soluble marking pen

DESIGN SIZE
22cm x 24.5cm (8 1/2in x 9 1/2in)

STITCHES USED
Bullion knot, colonial knot, couching, fly stitch, French knot, granito, lazy daisy stitch, pistil stitch, stem stitch, straight stitch

PREPARATION
Trace the outline of the heart from the pattern sheet onto the tracing paper, marking in the placements of the flowers with a cross. Pin the traced heart onto the centre of the blanket and tack around the outline, using a coloured thread. Tear the tracing paper away, being careful not to pull the tacking stitches loose.

EMBROIDERY
Heart: Using one strand of rose quartz (031) in the No 24 chenille needle, stem-stitch the outline of the heart.
Blossoms: Each petal is a granito stitch of six to seven stitches, using two strands of very very light raspberry (050) threaded in the No 22 chenille needle. Add a fly stitch and then a straight stitch at the tip of each petal using one strand of light raspberry (052) in the same needle. Stitch three straight stitches from the centre to the tip of each petal with one strand of rose pink (190) in the No 7 crewel needle, to give highlights to each petal. To fill the centre of the blossom, stitch two-wrap French knots in a combination of one strand of very light autumn yellow (471) or very light heraldic gold (841) with one strand of golden brown (2210) using the No 7 crewel needle.
Stems: The stems are stitched with one strand of medium sage green (625) couched down with the same thread in the No 22 chenille needle. They are then whipped with one strand of sage green (1510) using the No 7 crewel needle.
Buds: The main part of the bud is made up of a granito of five stitches using one strand of very very light raspberry (050), and one strand of light raspberry (052) both threaded in the No 22 chenille needle. The sepals are stitched with three straight stitches, stitched over the bud, with one strand of medium sage green (625) blended with one strand of light sage green (543). Add two straight stitches at the base of the bud with one strand of light sage green (543) to form the calyx.

Leaves: Using one strand of medium sage green (625) threaded in the No 22 chenille needle and starting at the tip of the leaf, stitch five to seven fly stitches. Then, using the same needle threaded with one strand of 564, stitch seven to nine straight stitches between the fly stitches. To anchor the leaves to the stem, work a pistil stitch, starting at the stem, with the knot end stitched at the base of the leaf.
Bullion Roses and Buds: Both the roses and the buds are stitched using one strand of amethyst light, threaded in the No 1 milliner's (straw) needle. The rose is stitched with two seven-wrap bullion stitches that form the centre of the rose. The first round consists of four 10-wrap bullion stitches. The final round is then worked with two 12-wrap bullion stitches. The buds are stitched with the same needle, using one seven-wrap bullion stitch to form the centre, then two 10-wrap bullion stitches are worked either side of the centre stitch.
Leaves: At the base of the buds, using two strands of 564 in the No 7 crewel needle, work a fly stitch and then stitch lazy daisy stitches for the leaves as indicated on the pattern sheet.
Forget-me-nots: With one strand of very light cornflower (461) threaded in the No 22 chenille needle, stitch five colonial knots. Then stitch a French knot in the centre of the forget-me-not with one strand of very light heraldic gold (841), threaded in the same needle.

FINISHING
Lining the blanket: Wash the piping cord and the satin bias binding to prevent shrinkage. The satin piping is made by ironing the satin bias binding open and folding it around the piping cord so that the cord is in the centre of the bias binding. Using the zipper foot on your sewing machine, and stitching very close to the piping cord, stitch the piping cord into the satin bias binding.
Pin the satin piping to the right side of the blanket 7.5cm (3in) from the edge of the blanket, with the raw edges of the satin piping facing towards the edge of the blanket. This will be covered with the lining fabric. Still using your zipper foot, stitch the satin piping to the blanket.
Having washed and ironed the lining fabric, lay the blanket onto the centre of the lining fabric, folding the edges of the lining fabric to the right side of the blanket so that it meets the satin piping. Mitre the corners, then hand-stitch the lining to the satin piping.

Celtic Pin Stool

This richly-coloured pin stool, designed and stitched in the true Irish tradition of Celtic work.

MATERIALS
• 30cm (12in) square of "Echo" fabric (or another suitable fabric) for the pin stool
• 25cm (Win) diameter circle of calico
• DMC Stranded Embroidery Cotton: one skein each of very dark blue violet (333), dark Christmas red (498)
• Gumnut "Buds" silk thread: One skein each of burgundy (179), purple (299), blue (369), green (629)
• Papillon thread: one reel of silver
• No 9 crewel needle
• 35cm (14in) of silver braid 6mm (1/4in) wide
• Mill Hill petite glass beads (42012)
• Mill Hill glass seed beads No (02007)
• No 7 milliner's (straw) needle
• Beading needle
• One tube of "Rub'n Buff" silver leaf paint
• Fibre filling: small amount to fill top of stool
• Decorative wooden stool: 11.5cm (4 1/2in) in diameter
• 2B pencil
• Screwdriver

DESIGN SIZE
11.5cm (4 1/2in) diameter

STITCHES USED
Bullion stitch, buttonhole stitch, lazy daisy stitch, raised stem stitch, satin stitch, stem stitch, straight stitch

Our Home amongst the Trees

Peg Fraser has assembled some of her favourite motifs into a miniature sampler. Stitch the inscription shown here or use the alphabet provided to add your own personal touch.

MATERIALS
• 30cm x 20cm (12in x 8in) 32-count "antique" linen
• Gumnut silk "Stars": 1 skein each of dark green 628 (501), light green 626 (503), gold 746 (676), blue 369 (930), red 829 (356), pink 857 (3712), brown 708 (420), (DMC Stranded Cotton substitutes are also given but these will result in a slightly different effect)
• No 24 tapestry needle

DESIGN SIZE
19cm x 8.5 cm (7 1/2in x 3 3/8in)

STITCHES USED
Cross stitch

Dragonflies in my Garden

These simple wool-embroidered pincushions, are a perfect project for both beginner and experienced stitchers. They feature dragonflies in enchanting daisy gardens.

MATERIALS
• 40cm (16in) square of cream chenille wool blanketing
• 1m (1 1/4yd) cream lace 4.5cm (1 5/8in) wide
• Appleton's Crewel Wool: one skein each of mauve (101) and purple (454)
• Gumnuts Tulips Mohair: one skein of green (643)
• Rajmahal Art Silk: one skein each of mango cream(141), pastel grey (221), Gothic grey (226)
• No 20 chenille needle
• No 7 crewel needle
• Machine-sewing cotton: one reel of cream
• Two dragonfly charms
• 2B lead pencil or a water-soluble marking pen
• Thick black texta
• Tulle for transferring of the pattern
• Polyester filling
• Greaseproof paper

DESIGN SIZE
Square pincushion: 17cm (6 3/4in) square Round pincushion without lace: 15cm (6in) diameter

STITCHES USED
Colonial knot, feather stitch, fly stitch, lazy daisy stitch, straight stitch

Morning Glory

MATERIALS
• 40cm x 112cm (16in x 44in) cream dupion silk or Thai silk
• 40cm x 112cm (16in x 44in) dress-weight batiste or fine lawn for lining the hack of the embroidery
• DMC Stranded Embroidery Cotton: 1 skein each of medium blue violet (340), avocado green (469), dark pine green (3362), very light antique mauve (3743)
• DMC Broder Medici Crewel Wool: 1 skein each of 8027, 8332, 8333, 8405, 8412, 8413, 8414, 8417
• Anchor Stranded Cotton: 1 skein each of mauve (118), pink (1021)
• No 24 and 18-22 chenille needles
• No 5-10 milliner's (straw) needles
• Machine-sewing cotton: 1 reel of ecru for tacking
• 2B pencil
• 60cm (24in) tapestry frame or 25cm (Win) embroidery hoop
• Tracing paper
• Fine black felt pen

DESIGN SIZE
13.5cm (5 1/8in) diameter

STITCHES USED
Couching, buttonhole stitch, French knot, long and short stitch, outline stitch, rope stitch, satin stitch, split backstitch, straight stitch

Lavender Hedge

MATERIALS
• Zweigart 32-count Belfast linen: 30cm (12in) square of white
• 50cm (1/2 yd) off-white fabric for the outside and the lining of the bag.
• DMC Stranded Embroidery Cottons: one skein each of dark drab brown (611), very light antique mauve (778)
• DMC Rayon Cotton: one skein of baby pink (30818)
• YLI 4mm (l/8 in) silk ribbon: 2m (2 1/4yd) each of dark green (21), 5m (5 1/2yd) medium green (20), 2m (2 1/4yd) light blue (98), 3m (3 1/4yd) light lavender (101), 5m (5 1/2yd) dark lavender (102), 2m (2 1/4yd) brown (36), 2m (2 1/4yd) white (1)
• No 3 milliner's (straw) needle
• No 22 chenille needle
• No 24 tapestry needle
• 1.5m (1 5/8yd) white cord
• 30cm (12in) tapestry frame (optional)
• Machine-sewing cotton: one reel of white
• 2B pencil

Note: This design is stitched freehand, therefore there are no measurements to follow. There is sufficient fabric and you will use the colour picture as a guide for your stitching.

STITCHES USED
Backstitch, fishbone stitch, French knot, half cross stitch, seed stitch, stem stitch, straight stitch

PREPARATION
Hint: It is a good idea to overlock or zigzag the raw edges of the linen to prevent them from fraying.
Tack the linen to the tape on either pole of the tapestry frame, then tighten the rollers until the fabric is taut. The frame is optional, but it helps you keep an even tension on your work when you are stitching the ribbon embroidery.

EMBROIDERY
Fence: With two strands of dark drab brown (611) in the No 24 tapestry needle and using Diagram 1 as a guide, stitch the fence posts. Start in the centre of your fabric and working over two fabric threads for one stitch. The fence posts are 17 backstitches high, and the railings are four backstitches wide. Add texture to the fence by stitching halfcross stitches randomly, using one strand of the same thread. Refer to diagram 1.

Hint: When starting your ribbon embroidery, bring the needle up through the fabric from the back of your work, leaving a 1cm (3/8in) tail. Likewise, when finishing your stitching, leave the ribbon at the back with another 1cm (3/8m) tail. When the embroidery has been finished, these tails will be trimmed. Using a machine-sewing cotton in a No 9 crewel needle, they will then be ended off with small backstitches gathered behind the stitches already stitched.

STANDARD ROSE
Leaves: With the dark green (21) in the No 22 chenille needle, randomly stitch tiny straight stitches for the leaves.

Roses: Thread six strands of very light antique mauve (778) in the No 3 milliner's (straw) needle and work a French knot for the centre. Then stitch straight stitches for the outer petals, overlapping them using three strands of the baby pink (30818) in the No 3 milliner's (straw) needle. Refer to diagram 2.

Trunk: Thread the No 22 chenille needle with a small length of the brown (36) and stitch stem stitches for the trunk, making sure they are stitched behind the fence rails.
Lavender: Using the dark green (21) threaded in the No 22 chenille needle, work clumps of straight stitches for the greenery. Then add the lavender flowers using the two shades of lavender ribbon (101) and (102), stitching an open fishbone stitch using the same needle as above. Refer to diagram 3.

Flowers along the baseline: These flowers are French knots stitched at random with the light blue (98) and white (1) threaded in the No 22 chenille needle. Work tiny seed stitches in amongst the flowers using the brown (36), also threaded in the No 22 chenille needle.

TO MAKE UP THE BAG
It is best to complete the making up of your bag using your sewing machine, as this gives a much stronger result. Cut the piece of linen 20cm x 11.5cm (8in x 4 1/2in). This includes the seam allowance.
Cut two pieces of fabric for the side strips along the embroidery, each 11.5cm x 4cm (4 1/2in x l 1/2in), and stitch them to the two short sides.
Cut one piece of fabric, 14cmx 26.5cm (5 1/2in x 10 1/2in) and join it to the top edge of the embroidery. Cut one piece of fabric, 6.5cm x 26.5cm (2 1/2in x 10 1/2in), and then join this to the base of the embroidery. This now completes the front of the bag.
Measure the front of your bag and then cut another piece of fabric for the back exactly the same size. Place the front and the back pieces right sides together. Starting from the top edge, stitch down the side 4cm (l 1/2in) and backstitch to end off. Leave 1cm (3/8in), and then stitch down the rest of the side seam to the base of the bag. Repeat on the other side. You now have the main part of your bag joined together. Measure the circumference and the length of the bag and cut another piece of fabric the same size, remembering to add seam allowances. Join the side seam, then place the lining and the main part of the bag right sides together and stitch around the top edge. Open the fabric out to make one long piece and press the seam allowance to the lining. Put a row of stay stitching just inside the top seam, stitching through the seam allowance underneath. Fold the bag with the wrong sides together and press along the top seam.
To make the base of the bag, cut two circles of fabric each 16.5cm (6 1/2in) in diameter, and press these with the wrong sides together. Mark the circles in quarters with pins or a coloured thread. Turn the bag right side out and also mark it into quarters. Pin the base to the main section, matching up the quarter-way marks. You may have to ease the base to fit the bag. Stitch all layers together and then overlock or zigzag the edges to neaten them.
Casing: Measure 3cm (1 1/4in) down from the top edge of the bag and stitch a row of stitches through all layers of fabric. Measure down 1cm (3/8in) from the stitched line and stitch another line of stitching below the first row.
Cut the cord into two pieces and then thread them through either side, tying a knot 2.5cm (1in) from the ends.
You now have a small carry bag to suit a number of purposes.

Scattered Daisies

MATERIALS
• 30cm (12in) square of embroidery linen
• 25cm (1/4 yd) fabric for the back of the cushion
• DMC Stranded Embroidery Cotton: one skein each of deep rose (309), light burnished gold (3822), two skeins each of hunter green (3346), blanc (white)
• No 6 crewel needle
• No 7 milliner's (straw) needle
• 1.25m (1 3/8 yd) piping cord for the edge of the cushion • 30cm (12in) cushion insert
• 20cm (8in) zipper
• 20cm (8in) embroidery hoop
• Water-erasable marking pen
• Spray bottle

DESIGN SIZE
23cm (9in) square

STITCHES USED
French knot, lazy daisy stitch (detached chain), stem stitch, straight stitch

PREPARATION
Trace the pattern from the pattern sheet onto your fabric with the water-erasable marking pen using your favourite light source. This can be a light box, a glass-topped table with a lamp lit up from underneath, or tape the pattern to a sunlit window. Tape the embroidery fabric over the top of the light source and trace the pattern onto the fabric.

EMBROIDERY
The embroidery for the stems and the petals is stitched with the No 6 crewel needle, and the French knots in the centre of the flowers are stitched with the No 7 milliner's (straw) needle.
Stems: Using six strands of hunter green (3346) the stems are stitched with a stem stitch. Refer to photograph 1.

Daisies: Using lazy daisy stitch and three strands of blanc (white), the petals are stitched close together, bringing the needle up from the back onto the inner circle to start the stitch. The tips of the daisies are then stitched with tiny straight stitches over the tip of the lazy daisy stitch using four strands of deep rose (309). Refer to photograph 2.

The half daisies are worked the same way.
Calyx: Straight stitches, with six strands of the hunter green (3346) following the shape across the calyx, are stitched at the base of the half daisies.
Centres: Using two strands of light burnished gold (3822), the centres of the daisies are stitched with clusters of French knots.

FINISHING
To remove the water-erasable pen markings, spray your embroidery with cold water from a spray bottle and allow it to dry.
Hint: Do not put your embroidery in the sun to dry as the water-erasable pen markings could return. Press your work with an iron after ensuring the water-erasable pen has been removed.

To make up your cushion, cut one piece of fabric for the back 33cm x 30cm (13in x 12in), and another piece 33cm x 11.5cm (13in x 4 1/2in) and join them together with the zipper. Open the zipper 10cm (4in). The back of your cushion is a little larger than needed to make it easier to stitch to the front of the cushion.
Place the back of the cushion right sides to the front of the cushion top and pin them together. Stitch the two layers together leaving an opening of 25mm at the base of the cushion. It is advisable to do this step on the sewing machine to achieve a much stronger result. Trim the raw edges and overlock or zigzag the edges to neaten them. Turn the cushion right side out.
Starting at the opening at the base of the cushion, put one end of the piping through the opening and stitch firmly in place. Pin the remaining piping cord around the cushion edge, stitching it in place as you go. Once you have reached the start of the piping cord put the end through the opening and finish stitching it neatly and firmly in place.
Place the cushion insert inside the cushion cover and your project is complete and ready to use.

Quick Project - Note Card

Make a very special note card as a handwritten announcement of special thank you. Even though we created this one with a now baby in mind, they are suitable for any occasion — graduation, birthday, wedding, anniversary, or holiday greeting. Choose your favourite flowers and go for it!

Supplies
Blank note cards available at art supply or craft stores
13mm edge-dyed ribbon: pink, blue, purple
7mm ribbon: pale green
4mm ribbon: pale green
1 yellow bead