Lavender Hedge

MATERIALS
• Zweigart 32-count Belfast linen: 30cm (12in) square of white
• 50cm (1/2 yd) off-white fabric for the outside and the lining of the bag.
• DMC Stranded Embroidery Cottons: one skein each of dark drab brown (611), very light antique mauve (778)
• DMC Rayon Cotton: one skein of baby pink (30818)
• YLI 4mm (l/8 in) silk ribbon: 2m (2 1/4yd) each of dark green (21), 5m (5 1/2yd) medium green (20), 2m (2 1/4yd) light blue (98), 3m (3 1/4yd) light lavender (101), 5m (5 1/2yd) dark lavender (102), 2m (2 1/4yd) brown (36), 2m (2 1/4yd) white (1)
• No 3 milliner's (straw) needle
• No 22 chenille needle
• No 24 tapestry needle
• 1.5m (1 5/8yd) white cord
• 30cm (12in) tapestry frame (optional)
• Machine-sewing cotton: one reel of white
• 2B pencil

Note: This design is stitched freehand, therefore there are no measurements to follow. There is sufficient fabric and you will use the colour picture as a guide for your stitching.

STITCHES USED
Backstitch, fishbone stitch, French knot, half cross stitch, seed stitch, stem stitch, straight stitch

PREPARATION
Hint: It is a good idea to overlock or zigzag the raw edges of the linen to prevent them from fraying.
Tack the linen to the tape on either pole of the tapestry frame, then tighten the rollers until the fabric is taut. The frame is optional, but it helps you keep an even tension on your work when you are stitching the ribbon embroidery.

EMBROIDERY
Fence: With two strands of dark drab brown (611) in the No 24 tapestry needle and using Diagram 1 as a guide, stitch the fence posts. Start in the centre of your fabric and working over two fabric threads for one stitch. The fence posts are 17 backstitches high, and the railings are four backstitches wide. Add texture to the fence by stitching halfcross stitches randomly, using one strand of the same thread. Refer to diagram 1.

Hint: When starting your ribbon embroidery, bring the needle up through the fabric from the back of your work, leaving a 1cm (3/8in) tail. Likewise, when finishing your stitching, leave the ribbon at the back with another 1cm (3/8m) tail. When the embroidery has been finished, these tails will be trimmed. Using a machine-sewing cotton in a No 9 crewel needle, they will then be ended off with small backstitches gathered behind the stitches already stitched.

STANDARD ROSE
Leaves: With the dark green (21) in the No 22 chenille needle, randomly stitch tiny straight stitches for the leaves.

Roses: Thread six strands of very light antique mauve (778) in the No 3 milliner's (straw) needle and work a French knot for the centre. Then stitch straight stitches for the outer petals, overlapping them using three strands of the baby pink (30818) in the No 3 milliner's (straw) needle. Refer to diagram 2.

Trunk: Thread the No 22 chenille needle with a small length of the brown (36) and stitch stem stitches for the trunk, making sure they are stitched behind the fence rails.
Lavender: Using the dark green (21) threaded in the No 22 chenille needle, work clumps of straight stitches for the greenery. Then add the lavender flowers using the two shades of lavender ribbon (101) and (102), stitching an open fishbone stitch using the same needle as above. Refer to diagram 3.

Flowers along the baseline: These flowers are French knots stitched at random with the light blue (98) and white (1) threaded in the No 22 chenille needle. Work tiny seed stitches in amongst the flowers using the brown (36), also threaded in the No 22 chenille needle.

TO MAKE UP THE BAG
It is best to complete the making up of your bag using your sewing machine, as this gives a much stronger result. Cut the piece of linen 20cm x 11.5cm (8in x 4 1/2in). This includes the seam allowance.
Cut two pieces of fabric for the side strips along the embroidery, each 11.5cm x 4cm (4 1/2in x l 1/2in), and stitch them to the two short sides.
Cut one piece of fabric, 14cmx 26.5cm (5 1/2in x 10 1/2in) and join it to the top edge of the embroidery. Cut one piece of fabric, 6.5cm x 26.5cm (2 1/2in x 10 1/2in), and then join this to the base of the embroidery. This now completes the front of the bag.
Measure the front of your bag and then cut another piece of fabric for the back exactly the same size. Place the front and the back pieces right sides together. Starting from the top edge, stitch down the side 4cm (l 1/2in) and backstitch to end off. Leave 1cm (3/8in), and then stitch down the rest of the side seam to the base of the bag. Repeat on the other side. You now have the main part of your bag joined together. Measure the circumference and the length of the bag and cut another piece of fabric the same size, remembering to add seam allowances. Join the side seam, then place the lining and the main part of the bag right sides together and stitch around the top edge. Open the fabric out to make one long piece and press the seam allowance to the lining. Put a row of stay stitching just inside the top seam, stitching through the seam allowance underneath. Fold the bag with the wrong sides together and press along the top seam.
To make the base of the bag, cut two circles of fabric each 16.5cm (6 1/2in) in diameter, and press these with the wrong sides together. Mark the circles in quarters with pins or a coloured thread. Turn the bag right side out and also mark it into quarters. Pin the base to the main section, matching up the quarter-way marks. You may have to ease the base to fit the bag. Stitch all layers together and then overlock or zigzag the edges to neaten them.
Casing: Measure 3cm (1 1/4in) down from the top edge of the bag and stitch a row of stitches through all layers of fabric. Measure down 1cm (3/8in) from the stitched line and stitch another line of stitching below the first row.
Cut the cord into two pieces and then thread them through either side, tying a knot 2.5cm (1in) from the ends.
You now have a small carry bag to suit a number of purposes.